BUENOS AIRES

Colourful B.A.
From Santiago we took a flight over the Andes to Buenos Aires. As the beautiful peaks spread out below us, I couldn’t help thinking of the book/movie ‘Alive’, the story of the plane that crashed over the mountain range. If you haven’t read the book or watched the movie it’s an amazing story. Actually we were fortunate to even be on the plane. We almost missed our flight. The morning we left Santiago Charissa and I slept in, once again. We hadn’t even packed yet. I guess after taking so many flights the thrill had definitely worn off a little. We were so relaxed… too relaxed. Some of our friends came over to say good bye. They assured us we had plenty of time. “There’s no need to be at the airport a few hours early.” Saying good bye took a while, we were already cutting is short for time. The laid back attitude of South America had rubbed off on Charissa and me. Finally we got everything into the pickup and Ruth drove us to the airport. Yeah, we didn’t have much time to spare but she figured we’d still make it. Then… oh no! The highway came to a stand still. Cars were stuck bumper to bumper in front and behind us. Apparently there’d been two accidents. Oh well, it should clear shortly, we thought. But we didn’t move. Some cars were small enough to fit through a gap in the barrier and crossed a grassy patch to get to a nearby road. There was no way our truck would fit, so we just waited. Ahhhh… eventually it started rolling again. We raced to the airport… our flight was leaving. Charissa and I checked in our bags, ran through customs and security, and sprinted to the gate. Out of breath we arrived just as they were loading the last people onto the plane. Phew! In B.A. we were met by Robin and Eileen Garvie.

Charissa and Eileen
An old Argentinean couple my aunt knew. A funnier pair we couldn’t have asked for. I phoned to ask how we’d recognize them. “Just look for two fat old people” said Robin. Their car was covered in bumper stickers that said stuff like; Jesus is Alive. Eileen wore a homemade hat, very original. She makes the perfect picture of a cozy grandma. Robin also wore one of Eileen’s creations on his head. He welcomed us as ‘Shorty’ for Charissa and ‘Petrita” for me (because my aunt is Petra and so I was little Petra at first). Our names changed a lot. Charissa was Teresita, Clare, Carrie, even Chinny because Robin thought her chin stuck out when she watched soccer. In Argentina they say things as they are. It’s not even considered rude. If you’re fat they’ll call you ‘gordito’ ‘fatty’, if you're ugly they’ll call you ‘ugly’. It’s pretty harsh. Yet Argentineans are some of the warmest and most expressive people I’ve ever met. Spanish is spoken with the enthusiasm, hand gestures, and singsong of Italian. Of all the countries we visited Argentineans are beautiful. They have such stunning eyes and sharp facial features, we could have stared at people all day. The Garvies took us back to their place. On the way we stopped for some groceries. Everyone who comes in contact with the Gravies gets a little tract to encourage them… and share their joy. Inside you could read about the joy of having Jesus as your personal saviour and friend. What an awesome time we had.
That night Robin read us a little story he called Vision.
The story was about a tree that stood alone on the top of a mountain. It had to endure the wind and the storms. It wasn’t protected by a forest. Yet, from up there it could see all the starry skies and the horizons stretching fore miles. The other trees grew all together in a valley protected from the harsh conditions and so they grew perfectly straight side by side all the same. Unlike the battered mountain tree. Yet they couldn’t see the view. All they could see was each other. God doesn’t want us to be conformed to a mould. He want’s us to climb out of our comfort zone to a place where we can see and learn. But there’s a cost. We will have to endure the wind and the storm. We had such an encouraging time with them. We also got to tour B.A. We saw the widest highway, the widest river (Uruguay is on the other side but you can’t see it), the art street, the canals, and different parts from the busy shopping streets of the down town area to the little weekend markets in the more rural parts.

Eileen

The "Artsy" part of town
Robin took us out for lunch… he ordered Charissa and I steak. We literally got a whole plate of steak… nothing but steak. (Not your typical order as a female… hehe) Turned out to be so delicious. Argentina is famous for it’s steak. We also got to do some Argentinean wine testing. The vineyards all over Argentina produce some of the worlds finest wine. Robin’s nephew sells rare wines. He gave us the full experience… he even took the temperature of the wine before giving us a taster. (Tasted really good to me, but I’m hardly your wine judge.) The music in Argentina is way better than Peru. You’ll get a lot more of a variety. One of the most common desserts is: custard. (I’m not a huge fan of Argentinean custard…. but Charissa liked it.)
The POLICE
My one word of warning, if you plan to visit Argentina, is: Don’t go to the police or military for help.
Fortunately Charissa and I were warned by our friends of just how corrupt they are. The police are in cahoots with the criminals, most of the time. If they ever pull you over all they want is a bribe. It’s not even something they do semi-secretively. They’ll just come out and say, well how much are you willing to give me. If your house get’s robbed, like our pals did, don’t make the mistake of calling the police. They’ll arrive, take a good look around, and then come a few days later to steal what the robbers missed. It’s unreal. Everyone has a dog. You're better off with a guard dog than any other form of protection. I’m not exaggerating when I say ‘Every single person has a dog.’ Everyone we met had dogs, everyone our Argentinean friends know have dogs, and stray dogs roam the streets like a plague. You’ll see dog walkers everywhere. People pay the dog walkers when they are too busy to walk their own dog. The amazing thing is you’ll see the dog walkers going around with about 5 dogs to a hand. Skill! I’ve never seen so many dogs able to all walk around town together… never fighting… walking side by side… the leashes don’t even get tangled up. Apparently your dog get’s trained to walk in a group at a very young age. As far as honesty, the military are no better. You try to avoid conflict as much as possible.
PATAGONIA - ‘The Wild West’

22 hours on the bus took us all the way south to Bariloche, in Patagonia. The drive was incredible. The landscape changed from a barren flat plateau, to dry rocky badlands, to glacier ice fields, to turquoise lakes, to jagged snowy peaks and evergreens. Patagonia reminded me of the Rocky Mountains of B.C.



We were on our way to visit my uncle and aunt. (He’s my mum's brother Klaus) They are the couple who motorbiked the world for 16 years. The book he wrote became a best seller in Germany. Their slide show was more popular than the biggest rock concerts. (Funny, on our flight to Argentina we met a German guy. He asked where in Argentina we would be going. ‘To visit my Uncle Klaus’, I said. He perked up, ‘I read a book of a guy named that, he biked the world’. Hehe, there was my claim to fame, I told him, ‘Yup, he’s my uncle’.) Of all their travels Klaus and Claudia liked Patagonia the best. Mostly because the natural beauty is basically untouched. Few people live down there. Wild horses still run free. Rivers are filled with delicious fish. The soil is so rich. My uncle is very much a hippy. Our experiences down in Patagonia were to be some of the WILDEST of our lives, to say the least. We had no idea what we were getting into…
We arrived at the bus stop in Bariloche. (a beautiful ski/snowboarding area…. we got to snowboard a few days later.) From there our Uncle picked us up in his jeep.

It had been snowing for the last few days and we had to make it through a mountain pass to get to his place, which is 2 hours south in the area known as Los Repollos, meaning ‘the cabbages’. Because of the enormous cabbages that could be grown in the rich soil. Río Negro is the province we were in. The nearest town is called El Bolsón. If the snow covered the pass we’d be stuck on the Bariloche side of the mountains till it melted. My uncle wasn’t keen on that thought so he suggested we get going right away and see if we could make it through before it got dark. The pass was covered in snow and ice. Even though we felt the time pressure we had to creep along at a snail's pace to keep from slipping. Thankfully we made it to the top, from there we had to be very careful not to pick up too much speed and just start sliding down the windy road. My uncle is a good driver and we made it safely to his ‘neck of the woods’. He doesn’t live in any town, rather he lives out in the middle of nowhere. There are some neighbours around him, but each of them have huge plots of land surrounding them. Even still, they couldn’t be too far away for my uncle. His little cabin is on a hill looking down at the river. The hill is between two huge mountains. Our life for the next few days would be like going back in time. There was two feet of snow outside, we were freezing. We wore all the layers we could and kept a constant fire going in the stove to keep the place warm. We were completely disconnected from the rest of the world, no computer, and a phone line that didn’t really work. Showers had to be taken on shower day, because heating the hot water with fire wood took time. We all jumped in one after another when the water had warmed up. Routines of the day were: Taking the sheep up and down the mountain side from pen to pasture, chopping fire wood with chainsaws, baking bread, going into the store house to bring up more bottles of homemade apple juice (That had been made to supply the family for the winter), and every once in a while going into town. The water was the cleanest water we’d ever tasted. Fresh from the mountains. Charissa and I built a snow fort with my little cousins. Then we came in and dried up by the fire. I played around on my uncle's guitar. Seems like paradise??? Awesome as it is, after you settle in you find out just what kind of a place Patagonia actually is. We were in for a shock. It’s like the wild west. Before Patagonia was colonized the Argentinean government gave criminals the option of jail time or settling Patagonia. Just like Australia started out. Convicts got sent down to settle in the area. The people have become great at surviving in the rugged environment. They are the best trackers my uncle has ever known. Just by the sounds the birds make the locals know if a deer, dog, or human is crossing their land. They’re dead right every time. Fishing is second nature to them. Tourists stand a whole day on the river banks only to catch a couple fish. The local women will toss in their line and pull up fish after fish till they can’t carry anymore. Living off the land they can do, but the way they work and live together is less glorious. Everyone has to protect their land from each other. A more thieving bunch of crooks I’ve never come across. You seriously can‘t talk sense to them. The law in Argentina is: once someone crosses into your fenced area you’re allowed to shoot to kill. You can’t live down their without a gun to defend yourself. My uncle thought he could negotiate or make friends with his neighbours but until he got a gun no one respected his word. He tried to offer them work, but they cheated him. He tried to help them out, but they took advantage of his generosity. They walked all over him stealing left and right. Finally he got a gun. He wouldn’t shoot to kill but he goes for a leg or something. He also got a good guard dog. Going to the police with your problems or taking issues to court is pointless and finally my uncle just gave up. If the law agreed to put the criminal in jail, they would let him out again at night for revenge. He has lived there for 8 years, so he still isn’t totally considered Argentinean. The fact that he is a foreigner doesn’t help but the locals are just as bad to each other as they are to him. Feuds are constantly rising. When people fight over land or possessions they’ll often end up machete hacking at each other’s limbs. They figure ‘chop the birds wings so he can’t fly no more’. We noticed people walking around who couldn’t use a leg or an arm because a tendon has been sliced. Chopping a tendon means the victim can’t get back at you. Here are some of the crazy things that happened… which we’ll never forget. We chopped lumber with chainsaws for an hour, something my uncle does regularly… only to have neighbours come and steal my uncles wood. We saw them trucking it off. My uncle had to use his gun to scare people off his property. His horses got stolen and eaten, shortly before we arrived. He found his best guard dog poisoned and lying dead. His mouth wired shut around the poison. Two neighbours had an argument over who would steal Klaus’s lumber. In their rage they burnt a chunk of my uncle's forest and the one shot the other twice, in the chest and side, leaving him to die. My uncle went up to see what had happened. He found the dying neighbour, it was the same guy who had poisoned his dog. He lay there on the ground almost dead from the bullet wounds. Although my uncle hated the guy he took him to the hospital and saved his life. For a while that particular neighbour didn’t bother him… but soon the incident was forgotten and life continued as it had before. Those are just some of the unbelievable stories. Patagonia was like living in the ‘Wild West’. It was an unreal experience and I‘m so glad we’ve lived to tell the tale. =) It’s hard to believe how my uncle lives down there. We have grown a whole new appreciation for the law and order in our Country.
BUS STOP BLESSINGS
From Patagonia we bussed 50 hours north to Iguazu Falls. Our route planning could’ve been a little better. We pretty much went from the southern tip to the northern tip. It took 3 days. =) Yeah, you know how much Charissa and I love bus rides. On the way up we stopped in Bariloche. What a pleasant surprise God had in store for us. Some friends of friends of friends heard we’d be there. They live about 1 hour away… yet they backpacked all the way out to see us. Neither Charissa or I had a clue who these people were. They turned out to be a young couple with two little kids. Our 2 hours ‘to kill’ at the bus stop just flew by. (I believe that ‘killing time’ shouldn’t even be in my vocabulary anymore. If we’re sensitive to God’s voice and leading every minute is precious.) 2 hours wasn’t nearly enough time. It’s incredible how we felt so close to these people, even though this was our first time meeting. We hit it off right away. There we sat sharing favourite verses, stories, encouraging each other, and praying together, right in the bus stop. What amazing stories they had. If you’ve ever read the story of ’Nicky Cruz’ the Bariloche guy had a similar story. He didn’t really know his parents. His mom was a prostitute. Growing up he felt so unloved that he almost committed suicide at age 11. As a teenager he got into the gangs. He didn’t value life. Then one day he turned into a new man. Jesus came into his life and for the first time he felt really loved. He gave his life over to Jesus. Him and his wife are working as a team to spread the love of God to everyone around them. They’ve lived in India... and other places.. now they work down in the south of Argentina with troubled youth and rich kids too. Such amazing stories. We underestimate the power of God’s love to change lives. It passes all understanding. What a privilege to be a funnel of God’s love. (Isn’t it so awesome how God can give you so much love for people that you couldn’t possibly have in yourself. God‘s store house of love is so large.) They are also musicians as well. Traveling and sharing their music to reach out. Please, if you read this keep them in your prayers. Ask God to continue to reach out to hurting people through them.
One really cool verse we looked at was what Jesus said: “I am the way the truth and the life.” We really thought about that, it’s one we’ve all heard.
I am the way
Not only is He the way to the Father, He is the way to follow Him. We are called to follow him. The first thing Jesus said to Peter was: ‘Come follow me.’ Three years later, the last thing he says to Peter is: ‘Don‘t worry about the others, You follow me’. We are to be imitators of Christ. He’s shown us the way.
I am the truth
Really think about that. He is the Truth. We put Jesus in the place of verses where the word Truth was. The Truth, Jesus, will set you free. Cool. It’s sad when Christians kind of fight... oh we have the truth... not them. No, Jesus is the Truth.
I am the Life
For me to live is Christ. With Christ we can really have Life. Col. 3:4 Christ, who is our life. Once you’ve found life in Christ it’s like living before wasn‘t living at all! Taste and see!
That’s just one of the cool things we talked about together. Those 2 hours were the most refreshing 2 hours ever.
IGUAZU FALLS

Iguazu. What a totally different type of Argentina. Jungle (Malaria breading grounds) surrounded the city of Puerta Iguazu, where our hostel was. Charissa’s sister had stayed there half a year ago and made friends with the Brazilian couple that owned the place. One night the drain in our shower backed up (It had been monsooning outside) and flooded the whole room. Try as we might we couldn’t stop the water from coming up out of the drain. Charissa and I called for help. In came the owner, he started working… chatting away, mostly to himself, in a combination of Spanish, Portuguese, Italian… and who knows what. He pretended he didn’t speak English. (When in fact he speaks perfectly, he grew up in Australia.) In the end we learned he get’s a good laugh listening to people say stuff they think he doesn’t understand. We were cautious and talked only in Spanish… finally he chuckled and started telling funny stories in ‘Aussie’ English. Other than the plumbing incident we had little trouble. Except having the power go out several times due to the frequent thunderstorms. Before I tell you about the falls I have to tell about my phone booth incident. I had bought a phone card and was planning on calling Neil that evening. I asked the hostel owners where I could use a phone. She said ‘just up the road’. I wandered up the road a piece… no phone booth. Asking another guy for directions I kept walking. Finally I found a telecom place on the other end of town. I hadn’t had any trouble getting there and the town didn’t seem too dangerous, compared with previous experiences, so I called home. It was getting dark out but the streets were well lit with lamp posts. A storm was brewing, it didn’t look too bad though. To my surprise the power went out…. over the whole city. Me and the other phone booth users stumbled out the door and went our separate ways, fumbling in the dark. I was praying hard I’d find my way back to the hostel without the help of the street lamps. I could barely see… the city didn’t seem nearly as friendly anymore. After a frightening journey I managed to get back safe and sound. That was a pretty ‘dumb bunny’ move, as my dad would say. No more phone calls after that. Early in the morning Charissa and I jumped on a bus and headed to the world famous Iguazu Falls. It cost quite a bit, at least for our budget, to enter as a foreigner. Too bad we had to show ID, they thought we were just from the south. (Locals always get cheaper deals. We actually got away with paying less several times. It totally helps to speak the language) A train ride took us through the jungle to the edge of the river. From there we walked out along gangplanks to one of the view points. Along the way we were surrounded by some of the most beautiful butterflies I have ever seen. From stunning purples, blues, greens, oranges, to crazy optical illusion type patterns, their wings were masterpieces of God’s creation.


This one was totally brown on the outside but when it's wings opened you'd see a beautiful blue.

Outside

Inside

The falls were so powerful. It’s not at all like Niagara Falls. There are falls in every direction. You actually can see levels. Rocks covered with jungle plants stick up between the falls. When we were there it was the middle of winter and the water level was really high. Our view of the falls wasn’t your typical Google image picture. We couldn’t even see the river below because the white spray was so intense. All we could see was the top halves of the raging falls pouring into a white misty nothingness. Little rainbows danced around in the spray from fall to fall. It was totally cool in a different way. We got soaked just standing there looking down. You can’t go to Argentina and not go to Iguazu Falls. =) I had one experience I won’t forget. One day Charissa and I journal'ed outside in the yard of the Hostel. That evening I almost went crazy I was so itchy. I thought I’d been eaten by some kind of bed bug again. My whole back was covered in what looked like mosquito bites. I showed the hostel owner and she scared the life out of me by saying she thought I’d gotten herpes. I guess they get a lot of backpackers who get it. We weren’t even sure what it was and when we asked how you pick it up she said ‘from guys’. No way. We told her that was out of the question. In the end it turned out I had a sun rash. The ozone layer in Iguazu is so thin the sun is really powerful, like in Australia. We didn’t know that and had sat outside journal'ing for quite a while. What a scare, I breathed a sight of relief. I didn’t mind the itch so much once I knew it was only a sun rash. (hehe) So, when you visit Iguazu be sure to: Protect yourself from the sun and bugs and see both sides of the falls.
BRAZIL
Charissa and I were wandering down one of the streets in Puerta Iguazu when we saw a local bus driving along with the words Brazil on it. We really wanted to go to Brazil, it hadn’t been in our travel plans but here was a bus so why not. We waved and the bus stopped. We hopped on and hoped for the best. Clearing the border wasn’t a problem… we spoke Spanish to the guy. (Like I said that really helps. Some other English speaking guy got really hooped.) Once we got to the other side we met a Canadian guy who was also just crossing over for the day. He asked us how much we paid for our visas. What visas??? we asked. Oh no. Apparently if you are in the country without a visa (which costs $75 US) and you get caught you’ll end up spending jail time, no questions asked. The problem the better off South American countries have is illegal immigration. We were used to having busses stopped and searched by soldiers in Argentina, it’s not uncommon. We were happy to have saved the $75 but it wouldn’t be worth it if we had to spend jail time. In Brazil Charissa and I went to the ‘Bird Park’. A wild life refuge for tropical birds. It was amazing. We got to walk through the jungle and get so close to Toucans, Flamingos, Parrots, and all kinds of birds I’d never seen before. One looked like an ‘Emu Body’ with a ‘Blue Vulture Neck’ and a huge ‘Rhino Horn’. Unreal! I also saw a gigantic 10 inch millipede on the pavement at the bus stop. Thankfully we made it back across the border, even though we missed our bus change. It’s such a joke, the bus stops where you’re supposed to get off one and hop on the other are totally unmarked. The bus will just stop at some random place and you’re expected to hop out run across the street and jump in another one… of course we didn’t know… but in the end we still made it.
FLYING HOME
YAHOO…. sitting in the airport in Buenos Aires we were both so excited. It seemed like a life time had gone by. Being home would be so strange. Charissa and I were kidding how we’d probably greet people with a kiss unconsciously. There’d be so many things to get used to. A huge change would be not being together. Think about it, Charissa and I were together more than your typical married couple. =) It was a pleasure to be travel companions. I couldn’t have asked for a better partner. We can honestly say there wasn’t any time we were wishing we’d traveled alone. We felt so close at the end it made it seem like we were strangers when we left. We had gotten used to sharing everything. We consulted each other so much we started saying things like: “Do we have room in ‘OUR BELLY’ to finish that rice?” We pretty much got to know each other inside and out… The good the bad and the ugly. I can honestly say we only love each other more for it. Our flight was 12 hours, from B.A. to Dallas Texas. (Unreal eh? I had no clue it was that far down.) We flew through the night… with some of the best turbulence I’ve ever been through. It was exciting. Sure took away the boredom of the flight. Our chairs were rattling as though the screws would soon come loose. The kid sitting in front of me had a broken chair which reclined more than usual, that might have been OK if my chair could recline too. Unfortunately mine was broken and could barely recline at all. Basically my legs were pinned under his chair most of the flight. =) On the way home from Texas we sat next to a Miami chef. The whole flight we shared cooking ideas, what an inspirational journey. =) It’s always so nice to come home. Especially to see the familiar faces you’ve missed so much. Of all our travels we realized what an awesome place we live in. It’s got the combination of oceans, mountains, wilderness, city, four seasons, not an extreme climate… all in one location. WOW… I know I’m biased, but we truly live in one of the most awesome spots… BEUATIFUL BRITISH COLUMBIA!!!